What is the Latok Summit?The Latok Mountain is a 1-2 person tent designed for everything vertical. Thanks to its low-ceiling design, ultra-weather-resistant Pertex Shield Air flysheet and clever pole construction, it'll thrive in some of the most hostile environments.
What is it made of?The Latok is made from a 3L Pertex Shield Air fabric — the same you'll find in a lot of jackets. This ultra-breathable yet fully waterproof fabric will withstand the worst conditions imaginable, yet packs down nice and small when not in use. To put the weather-resistance of this tent into perspective, the hydrostatic head of your average tent (the amount of water it'll withstand, basically) is around 3000mm — the Latok's is 15,000mm. It's not just the weather-protection that's impressive though, this fabric is also far more breathable than your average tent flysheet and massively reduces condensation. The '3L' bit in the name means it's made from 3 layers: you've got a tough 15D nylon on the outside to deal with the majority of the abuse, the waterproof membrane in the middle and a breathable nylon on the inside. The lower part of the tent is made from a thicker, tougher waterproof nylon with taped seams.
How is it constructed?The Latok has a very simple, uniform shape designed to shed snow easily and stand firm in high winds. Internally, you'll find two high-quality DAC Featherlite NSL 9.6mm thick poles which overlap at the highest point of the tent. The result of these overlapping poles is a far stronger tent and one that is completely freestanding, making it super easy to reposition for the perfect pitch.
What are its features?Entrance into the tent is via a large zipped door with a stiffened porch to limit snow ingress. On the roof of the tent you'll find 'donut' tie-in loops which allow you to attach it to a belay anchor when pitching in more severe locations. Six oversized peg points and six guylines keep the tent secure and stable.
Ventilation is improved even further with a rear ventilation point — this allows you to leave the door slightly open and have a constant source of air passing through.
- Air-permeable waterproof upper fabric for high levels of comfort
- 9.6mm DAC Featherlite NSL internally pitched poles
- "Donut" tie-in loops on roof and sides for attachment to belay anchor (Using additional climbing hardware - not included)
- Bathtub nylon base with taped waterproof seams
- Zipped main entry, with stiffened porch
- Rear tunnel ventilation
- 6 oversized peg points and 6 guy lines
- Includes 12 DAC V-stakes
- Pertex Shield Air flysheet fabric
How to Care for Your Tent
We know that purchasing a tent is a big investment, that’s why we have such a wide range of options to suit different activities, weather conditions and people, allowing you to choose the perfect one for you. Taking care of your brand new tent can be the difference between heading out for an adventure in the mountains, or having to fork out for a hefty repair bill, or even worse, another replacement tent. Below are our best tips to care for your tent.
Footprint
Before even leaving the shop (or online basket) with your tent, consider a footprint. A footprint is a large water-resistant piece of material which sits underneath your tent to protect it from sharp rocks and wet ground; if this footprint gets damaged, it’s easy to replace and doesn’t cost a fortune; if your tent groundsheet gets damaged, you’ll have to spend at least twice the amount for a repair or replacement.
Don’t Abuse the Poles
The chances are your poles are made from individual aluminium sections connected by elastic; when you come to remove the poles from the tent, don’t pull them out. The best way to remove poles from their sleeve is to place the pole end against your hip and pull the fabric towards you. If you simply attempt to pull the pole out, they’ll disconnect inside, the elastic will stretch and then spring back, potentially trapping the fabric of your tent between the pole sections.
You might also be tempted to flick the poles out so that the elastic snaps them into place in a quickfire fashion. However, this is far from ideal, as if the poles don’t align when they meet, you can easily damage or weaken the end of the pole, leading to future failure which is usually on the wettest and windiest nights!
Collapse Poles From the Centre
When your poles are safely removed from the sleeve, collapse them from the centre to avoid stretching the elastic.
Stuff, Don’t Fold
You were probably told when you were in the Scouts or doing the Duke of Edinburgh Award that the best way to pack your tent away is to neatly fold it into a rectangle, the width of your storage bag, roll it around the poles and pegs and then put it all in the stuffsack. However, whilst very neat and tidy, this method of packing can create permanent creases in the fabric, weaken the waterproofing and eventually split the fabric of your tent. The best solution is to simply stuff the tent fabric into the storage bag, just like you would a sleeping bag, and pack the poles separately. Make sure to leave and end or corner at the top, so that you can easily peg it out if your next campsite is windy. The poles normally have their own stuffsack so they can be packed separately, strapped to the outside of your pack or stored inside, allowing the tent fabric to be compressed for efficient packing.
Store it Dry
Let’s assume you’ve been out with your tent and the weather has been a little on the damp side. You’ve packed your tent away when wet and now you’re back home in the warm and dry with a nice of cup of tea reflecting on your latest adventure. But what about your poor soggy tent? The worst thing you can do is to leave it packed away wet, mildew will grow and eventually rot the tent, rendering it useless. As soon as you’ve finished that cup of tea, wipe off any excess dirt and moisture with a towel, then hang the tent somewhere where it can fully air out; a nice warm spare room or a garage is perfect. Alternatively, when it stops raining, pitch the tent outside in the sunshine to dry off. Let it air for at least 24 hours and once you are sure that it is bone dry it can be packed away for storage. Note - don’t tumble dry or hang the tent over a radiator or other direct heat source.
Don’t Store in the Stuffsack
Like your sleeping bag, it’s best not to store your sleeping bag in its stuffsack unless it has to be compressed for an activity. Leave it in a large duffel bag or supermarket ‘bag for life’ in a cool, well ventilated area so it can breathe.
Avoid Tree Sap
If you’ve ever had sap on your hands, you’ll know how horrible and sticky the stuff is; it’s even harder to remove from your tent flysheet. Pitch away from trees if possible.
Don’t Leave in the Sun
The majority of tents we stock are made from nylon. Nylon is incredibly tough, lightweight and easy to care for, however it will naturally degrade if left out in harsh sunlight for extended periods of time. Try to pitch your tent in the shade or strike the tent (pack it away) during the day. Polyester tents don’t suffer from this quite as badly, but it’s still a good habit to get into.
Leave Sharp Objects Outside
Boots, cooking equipment and other sharp/abrasive objects can all be stored in the vestibule, where there is less chance of it ripping a hole in your fly or groundsheet. You may not want to pop your pet in there, but at least carry a small blanket to avoid their claws damaging your groundsheet.